Piccalilli – Peeling Tiny Onions For Mankind
Peel those tiny onions for the best piccalilli.
Peel those tiny onions for the best piccalilli.
Red cabbage is a favourite of the Davinator and is always on our table at Christmas and Thanksgiving. It’s the perfect dish for holiday entertaining; easy to make, can be made in the days ahead, stores easily. It’s purple red colour looks festive and it is very low fat and high in fibre – a nice contrast with much of the rest of traditional holiday menus.
I make this on Christmas Eve or the day before and refrigerate it in the pot you cooked it in. If it’s cold enough, I leave it in the Davinator’s unheated workshop. It freezes well and makes a fantastic addition to a turkey sandwich on Boxing Day.
Useful equipment for this recipe: a substantial oven ready pot with a lid (le Creuset or similar), a hand held mandoline and an apple corer. I’m not an advocate of giving drawer space to single use gadgets but an apple corer is one of few exceptions – speeds up the preparation of the apples considerably.
Cabbages vary in size so the main ingredients are expressed in relation to the weight of the cabbage. The recipe is flexible and forgiving so feel free to omit or substitute the fruit, pears are also very nice.
Let’s get cooking.
1 red cabbage, approximately 1 kilo or 2 pounds, shredded with a knife
Onions or shallots; by weight 50% of the cabbage
Apples or pears; by weight 50% of the cabbage, cored and chopped small
1 clove of garlic, chopped small or forced through a garlic press
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cloves
45 grams (3 tablespoons) brown sugar
50 mls (3 tablespoons) red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon of butter
Salt and pepper to taste
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You’ve made fried courgette flowers, ratatouille, chocolate courgette donuts, courgette marmalade and spiralised seemingly countless squash. What’s left? Time to make chutney. Chutney is a mixture of fruit, vegetables, vinegar, spices and enough sugar to bind it all together. It is usually eaten as a condiment (like Branston pickle or piccalilli) but I can’t swear that the Davinator has not eaten a sneaky chutney sarnie from time to time.
Like ratatouille there are an endless number of chutney recipes on the internet. And to be honest if you cook it long enough and slow enough, ingredients become chutney. This one works for me – the main ingredients seem to ripen at the same time in my garden. It’s based on a recipe from BBC GoodFood which has a wealth of practical and straightforward recipes for home cooks.
Once you’re comfortable with the recipe it’s easy to vary the component fruit and vegetables. The ‘chutney base’ is the vinegar, sugar and spices. Then it’s a squash element, a vegetable element (don’t start on tomato is actually a fruit) and a fruit element.
Recipe
Ingredients
Method
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I don’t like beetroot, why do I keep trying to cook with it? I refuse to be defeated by a vegetable and a root vegetable at that. Also, I was traumatised by beets as a child. My parents believed that if they put food on a plate at supper time; we children should eat it. They tried various stratagems to get me to eat the beets.
Most of my generation will recognise these; ‘just one bite’, ‘how do you know you don’t like them’, ‘you’re going to sit here at the table until you eat those beets’, ‘I’m going to warm up the beetroot for every meal until you eat it’.
Basically, this was a running gun battle that happened most Thursday nights (Thursday menu was meatloaf, mashed potatoes, cole slaw and beets). I didn’t (don’t) eat meatloaf or beets and so battle was joined.
However, I’m an adult (allegedly) and I’m not going to let the beetroot win. Hence, my quest to find something that makes beetroot fun to eat.
Claire, one of the lovely dressers at Smartworks, found this recipe for me. And I think we’ve cracked it. I’ve made a few tweaks. The Davinator said ‘OMG, this is it, you have made beetroot taste amazing’. Even I like this soup.
It’s a relatively simple recipe but I suggest all the usual precautions when peeling, cutting and cooking with beetroot. Wear rubber gloves, don’t let the peeled beetroot touch anything that is porous or you can’t scrub with lots of hot water and strong soap.
One health warning – excessive consumption of beetroot is not recommended for those with a history of kidney stones or kidney disease.
Time to make soup.
1 – small onion
30 grams of butter
1 medium potato
2 medium parsnips
4 small or 2 large beetroots
800 mls of vegetable stock or other light stock
2 tablespoons of cooking brandy
Sour cream or full fat Greek yoghurt for serving
Every cook needs people who eat. It’s like leading and following; what kind of leader are you if no one follows? What kind of cook are you if no one is eating your cooking? Cooking only for Instagram?
My consumers are family, friends, co-workers, fellow volunteers at SmartWorks, my pilates instructor and her family not to mention my fellow Pilates students. But my prime consumer and best critic is the Davinator (my husband Dave). On the one hand, he has never met a baked good he didn’t like. On the other hand, he has great ideas about what he wants to eat and has learned to offer frank feedback (or get the same thing again). I hate to be old fashioned but being a good cook is unlikely to attract a man but it certainly keeps them around.
I digress briefly for an anecdote. A merchant banker of my acquaintance (probably 5-10 years older than me) told me that he married a terrible cook. I think that this was a fairly traditional It girl marrying merchant banker story. Assessing that this inexperience and not bad training, he cheerfully ate whatever she cooked and only offered the mildest and most gentle of suggestions. He believed that encouragement would get him further than criticism. Apparently, it was three years before he would come home to a reliably decent meal. I said ‘did she ever figure it out?’. He seemed puzzled by the question. End anecdote.
The Davinator’s favourite salad is Nicoise. It is a great showcase for summer produce so fits well with our ‘eat locally, eat in season’ ethos. It also helps with using up the Abel & Cole weekly organic vegetable box. Well maybe not the tuna but all uncooked tuna you get the UK has been frozen and comes from a distance. I use fresh tuna but use canned tuna if it suits you for cost or convenience reasons. Nicoise is very flexible, so feel free to adjust the dressing (there is a ‘standard’ vinaigrette and a dijon vinaigrette below) and add or subtract ingredients as you wish. Change it enough and it’s something else, of course but it might still be amazing. This is my ‘go to’ recipe for Salad Nicoise.
Marinade/vinaigrette dressing
(I’m trying to write for non-experts so apologies if I’m explaining things you know how to do). This is my suggested order for preparation.
The Davinator likes to have a some toasted sourdough rye bread with butter with his Salad Nicoise but any bread is a good accompaniment.
None of these are mandatory for the recipe but each is a help.
I mentioned the egg piercer above. The best way to make reliable boiled eggs (soft, medium or hard boiled) is to put them in boiling water (using a slotted spoon) after piercing them. They won’t crack if they’re pierced before being put in the boiled water. You can also bring the eggs to a boil starting with cold water and eggs in the pan (also won’t crack) but this method is much more difficult to time accurately.
I find that fresh herbs make a difference in this recipe (not always by the way). I chop mine with a mezzaluna (Italian for half moon), its a lot quicker and more effective than chopping with a knife.
I’ve got a grilling skillet that I only use for cooking tuna. It probably is good for steak (Davinator cooks the steaks btw) and sausages but for some reason I only get it out for tuna. And it does make those attractive stripes.
Keep cooking! And eat more vegetables.